Hermès Spring Summer 2022

Who else but Hermès could arrange for a plane to be landed as part of their grand finale? The runway from the runway happened all the way out at Le Bourget airport—the climax of a show designed by Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski as an immersive experience conveying optimism, the sun, and hope.

We’d been encased in a cylindrical installation at first, with a panorama of mobile panels of sunshine yellow—hand-painted color-fields by Flora Moscovici that were gliding slowly around the perimeter as models walked. It provided a soothing backdrop for viewing the collection, which was “about solar glow and how positive it is” on one level and “about Vanhee-thoughts Cybulski’s on how women will want to dress for re-entering the world” on another.

She landed on shapes that combined drawstring waists and structured bra tops, athletic cutaway shoulders, and easy plissé bottoms to achieve that balance of practicality, comfort, and sensuality. Believe it or not, the crop top and baggy pants trend, which has been worn by teenagers all over the world since summer 2020, has made its way all the way up to Hermès. Of course, in its most sophisticated guise.

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