Helmut Lang – Seen By Shayne Oliver TBC – New York Fashion Week 2017
Fashion sees its fair share of revivals, but under Isabella Burley, its 26-year-old first-time editor in residence, the Helmut Lang label is rewriting the rule book. The brand has launched a Re-Edition collection of archival pieces by Lang himself, the Austrian autodidact who left his eponymous label in 2005 and in absentia has become the most influential designer of this decade. Burley is producing a yearlong artist series inspired by the collaborations Lang had with the likes of Jenny Holzer and Louise Bourgeois. And, most notably, she’s hired Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver as the label’s designer in residence.
The last time Oliver put on a show in New York, for Spring 2017, he partnered with PornHub, slicked back models’ hair with “love juice,” and otherwise subverted the runway order. During its nearly three-year stint, HBA’s shows were always good theater, and its absence from the New York calendar last season was much lamented. Tonight hundreds of people crowded the sidewalk outside the old Pearl River Mart on lower Broadway to see Oliver’s debut.
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